2009 already feels like a breath of fresh air, a freezing cold breath, but nonetheless it feels fresh, new, I can’t really describe it… Somehow, I feel inspired by the sub-zero temperatures and have decided to start the year by simply featuring my favorite collections from the coming season. I still vow to turn you on to things you can definitely wear now over the winter months, but I think it is only appropriate to give you a taste of what is to come in ’09…
Lets start with the ladies… New York really gave me a lot of inspiration this year. I tend to big a major Paris/London girl, but I have to say, there is so much excitement in American design right now. Yes, one or two of the names I will mention are not Americans, but they choose NYC Fashion Week as their ultimate stage and therefore deserve to be grouped with this uber-creative set.
At the top of my list is Marc Jacobs. I don’t even know where to begin, as I loved everything about his Spring 2009 Collection. He is the ultimate mixologist! The collection is part turn-of-the-century, part Asian-inspired, part Americana…perhaps it is the over-the-top vintagy feel or the to die for fabric choices or that amazing obi-style belt he uses in almost every look that makes my temperature rise. I also adore the fact that he doesn’t fall into a specific trend category…his point-of-view is beyond unique, beyond inspired!!!!
Next on my list has been omnipresent in my blog lately, Jill Stuart. I am mad about this collection. Flowing, layers of draped almost aqueous fabric, ballerina-esque, sweet, are just some of the descriptions that come to mind. This collection taps right into my over-the-top desire to be a girly-girl. The color palette is soft and soothing with warmer pinks and pale grays dominating. Standouts for me are the dresses and the short shorts. I even loved the leg warmer effect of the bunched stockings, though not easy to wear.
Alexander Wang’s collection was once again edgy perfection. He did Spring leather better than any of the Americans and his short suits will be on every It-Girls list. He took the dominatrix shoe to a new level…nothing sweet about these little numbers and his embellished tuxedo jacket rocked my world. Lastly, he arguably showed the best selection of pants from fluid harem styles to a new straight-leg denim replacement. He is the ultimate for the downtown thinking girl! An honorable mention for this audience is of course Daughters from married design phenoms, Swaim and Christina Hutson. Their boyish everything (suits, jackets) are just oh so cool!
If you want to go more boho, ethnic, Anna Sui did some of the most inspired pieces. Her embroidered, embellished dresses are fab and do I covet the boots she showed with almost everything. Believe it or not, an honorable mention should go to the ubiquitous DVF and Milly Collections as well. The maxi dresses from both are amazing and if I could pull off those DVF headwraps, trust me I would wear one every day!
A new collection to make my favs list is Preen. To me it really underscores the feel of Spring 2009. Preen definitely has its roots in Calvinism, with a soft neutral color palette that will challenge even the most adventurous colorists, but the anti-minimal, draped ruffle effect so predominant in the collection is a welcomed juxtaposition and one of the key new trends this season.
Another newbie for me is Rachel Comey. The collection is waifish, youthful and semi-pinup girl-inspired. The print mixing is perfection and much more accessible then Marc Jacobs and I especially love the use of draped little cardigans as the ultimate layering pieces. I am not a big cardigan girl, but I think hers are particularly charming. Her clothes are just the antidote to any hot summer day.
If I lived a socialite lifestyle, I would buy all of Douglas Hannant dresses. His almost-frail lace versions are cocktail, black-tie perfection and deserve to be showcased at all of the spring flings. I even think some of his dresses would be perfect for a modern bride…move over Vera! For the downtown party-set, go Brit-transplant Mathew Williamson. His mini sequined, ruffled, flowered little creations are right on for the set who likes a little sweet with their rock-n-roll. Lastly on the party front, a sure to be Oscar fav will be Monique Lhuillier’s fantastic gowns. Draped, ruched, wrapped tulle…a red carpet starlet’s dream!
As per usual, I save the best for last. Number one on my list is Rodarte! You may not share my passion for this collection, but I for one am obsessed. My take was less intellectual then some of the haughtier fashion press…punk rock ballerina, part futuristic siren, love them or hate them, they are arguably setting the bar for American fashion!!!! I will never be able to afford, but will covet the almost skeletal, destroyed leather pieces, the always standout distressed knitwear and those amazing two-toned, almost tie died dresses. I gravitate towards the softer, neutral part of the collection, but on the right woman the multi-colored gowns would be showstoppers!!!
So hats off to the Americans!!! Trust me, I had a hard time picking just a few favorites. I look forward to featuring my most coveted items and looks and hope that this little taste gives you a sneak peak into what is to come. Throughout the rest of this week, I will feature the Europeans and of course will delve into shoes, accessories and menswear. I will continue to share my opinions and inspirations with fervor and passion and hope you continue to enjoy my personal view of the world of style!!!