No one can argue that Italians have a zest for life… Just look at some of their most affecting imports; opera, cuisine, fast cars and oh yes, fashion!!!! So today, in continuing with my New Year’s theme, I want to share my favorite collections from Milan with the hopes that they may inspire you to style greatness or at least to live life to the fullest…
I have to start with Prada and Miu Miu (actually shown in Paris). Both collections make my list pretty much every season, but this time around I found Miuccia particularly inspired and boundry-pushing. Embracing simplicity, not minimalism, this somewhat unkempt collection was wrinkled, crinkled perfection. I loved the overtly provocative notes such as exposed self-fabric bras and subtle figure enhancing shapes. The dresses are stellar, particularly the snakeskin version and the gold lame finale pieces are absolutely on my cocktail covet list!!!!
Ahhh Miu Miu…do I love this collection! To me Miu Miu is always a little “avant girly”…always directional, but also feminine and sweet. Perhaps coquettish, perhaps waifish at times, Spring 2009 delivers. The new skirt shape is delightful...slightly tuliped, pleated, tucked, with heavy waistbands and draped fabric. Part architecture, part fluid movement, they are sure to be one of the season’s must haves. I also adore the paneled dresses and think the ancient tile print dresses are the perfect modern response to a more ethnic-type print…
Next on my list, surprisingly, is Dolce & Gabbana. Don’t get me wrong I think they are genius, but I tend to shy away from their brash ladies who lunch power looks. I sometimes find their use of sexuality over the top, but not this season. They are sort of my Marc Jacobs of Milan. Pajama fabrics prevail, experimentation with severe structured shapes surprise, and the appliqué dresses and skirts are just WOW!!!! They also use embellishment more intelligently than almost anyone this season. The collection as a whole is pure drama and to me represented the ultimate in La Dolce Vita. Jumpsuits are sure to be one of the season’s key trends, and their pajama versions are to die for…it takes a special kind of woman to pull this look off, so true fashionistas rejoice!!!
Burberry Prorsum, yes a British brand, always steals the show in Milan… I do love the new collection, though somber at times! I adore the ease of it and the romantic undertones. As per usual, I would buy all of the dresses (if you haven’t guessed I am a big dress fan) and those tile-like necklaces are “oh my god” pieces. I also love the subtle use of dip dye and the subdued, quiet color palette. The new, slim, fluid legging meets trouser, pant shape is also intriguing, though perhaps hard to wear. Finally, the crinkled knitwear is soothing and tactile and the perfect final touch to an exquisitely relaxed Christopher Bailey collection!
Sadly, no honorable mentions in the Milan set…l wasn’t impassioned this time around. Ouch…my go-tos, Gucci and Marni didn’t even make my list. I am sure once I dig into the season, I will find looks and pieces from these usual favs, but in the meantime I look forward to sharing my loves from Paris and London in the next couple of days…there are many!!!!